The Kandy to Ella line is the most photographed rail journey in Asia and one of the few tourist experiences that is genuinely better than the pictures.
Which class
Second class reserved is the sweet spot — windows open, doors open, fans, and a fraction of the price of the observation saloon. First-class observation has air conditioning and sealed windows, which is exactly what you do not want.
Which side
Travelling from Kandy towards Ella, the best views are on the right-hand side for the first half and roughly even after Nanu Oya.
Booking
Reserved seats open 30 days ahead and the tourist-heavy sections sell out within hours. Either book the moment they open, or travel unreserved third class and accept you may stand for a few hours — which plenty of people happily do.
Where to board
Most travellers board at Kandy or Peradeniya and alight at Ella. If you only want the famous stretch, Nanu Oya to Ella is around four hours and covers the best of it.
The door photo
Hold the handrail with both hands, keep your body inside the frame, and do not lean out on bends. People are injured doing this every season.